electrical help needed.

[headache]

Hey guys i've been lurking around the forum for quite a while but just now joined. If any of you are over on E2S i go by the same user name. Anyway i picked up a 95 blaster a few wks ago off craigslist that needed topend rebuilt. It had a wore out wiseco so i bored it .04 over and put it a fresh piston, has a midrange port job, i machined the head and has 150psi compression, boyesen pro series reeds and light flywheel. Has DG full exhaust. I put in a 260 main jet and cleaned the carb up good. Now when i first went to fire this thing up it had NO spark. I i ordered a new stator and put it on and still had nothing. So i looked around at some other posts about the tors problems and unhooked the tors box, cut the wires going to the throttle housing and unplugged the wires to the carb. Now the quad Will start but it will only idle. It seems to have a rev limiter just above idle. reminds me of the 03+ blasters when the parking brake switch goes bad (and yamaha warriors do the same). What could it be? could something be wrong with the cdi box? I tried jumping the 3 wires that run the tors box (yellow/black, black and black/white.) If i touch the black white one to the yellow/black one it kills the motor. this is with the box unplugged of course. sorry for the long post just wanted yall to know that everything is up to par on the quad. somebody help me! this thing fires up first or second kick. will sit and idle all day.

 

[Blaaster]

With a +03 the wires cannot be just be unplugged they must be tied together.

Limiting at idle also tells me that the park brake is on.

 

[headache]

this quad is a 95. no parking brake

 

[Arnold]

Try to adjust the idle screw on the tors box on top of the carb

 

[Larry's Shee]

Check that the flwheel key is not sheared. Is the spark fat&blue or lazy yellow?

Welcome to the DIRT PILE !!

 

[headache]

i've tried the idle screw. its not a carb problem or a lack of spark. believe me ive grabbed the plug while kicking it over. shocked the crap out of me. flywheel key is good, i lightened the flywheel myself and put it on. all thats good. i've owned 4 different blasters over the years from mild to wild, and this one has me stumped.

 

[Arnold]

Now im not doubting ur abilities here but check the main jet n needle seems like it might be cloged. Also did u comletely remove tors box under the hood?

 

[Larry's Shee]

I doubt that Thomas Edison could feel the difference between a lazy spark and a good one. A motor needs three things: fuel, fire, and air. You "claim" to have ruled out the first two, so that only leaves an act of GOD.

Carry on.

 

[Awk08]

you're going to have to follow the electrical troubleshooting with an ohm meter in the manual, located in the electrical section 7 and troubleshooting in section 8

downlaod it here.........

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/

to save.......click the link, allow to load, click file in the upper left hand corner, then "save as", choose a location on your computer, i like the desktop at first

 

[headache]

Yeah the carb is spotless. the only thing i havent checked is needle position but even if it is on leanest setting it should still rev up with proper main and pilot. I removed the tors box completely. unplugged the wires to the throttle switch and unplugged wires to the carburetor. i'll clean and check the carb out one more time then just order a cdi box. the coil checks good and the new stator checks good with ohm meter.

 

[headache]

I put another cdi box on this and changed the coil with a known good coil and nothing has changed. i've adjusted timing from +4 back to 0 and checked the flywheel key. needle position is on 3rd clip.. i've tried main jets from 230 to 340 with no change. now i'm going to check the wiring harness and simplify it down to necessary wires to see if i can find the problem

 

[Arnold]

Have you check the throttle cable from end to end? Is the slide in the carb actually moving up and down when you move the thumb throttle? check the reeds to make sure they aren't cracked and that they open and close. Try to adjust the air idle screw to see if the rpms change. Also tape off the wires that went to the tors box, or remove those wires completely to ensure they aren't grounding or shorting out anywhere to close the circuit. And just for info for us how many wires are coming off of your stator?

 

[Larry's Shee]

A poor ground will cause this condition. Either check all that they are clean and bare metal, tight, with naybe a dab of dielectric grease OR run a ground wire from coil/volt reg and either tie into harness or directly to engine.

Also check switches that they are fully open or closed.

 

[headache]

I got it fixed earlier finally. I put my original stator on and it fired up and runs great! The cheapo stator i bought off ebay was bad. The ONLY thing that was ever wrong was the Tors box was bad. I had changed the stator before i ever unplugged the box so i didn't think about the stator. The lesson here is only buy Oem stators! i'm hoping i can send this 65 dollar piece of crap back. I was about to tear into the wiring harness and check all the wiring. I'm glad i got it going.

 

[headache]

I also done away with voltage regulator and took off the factory run/headlight switch and just hooked up my tether kill switch to the black/white wire that comes from the original switch

 

[DUALSTROKE]

yeah those cheapo caltric ones on ebay have had problems.Ricky stator has horrible luck with banshee stators but the blaster stators from them seem to be ok. Personally I agree I use oem or I have my oem ones rebuilt by Ricks Motorsports electric out of New Hampshire.Glad to see you got it figured out and reporting back with what you found.

 

[headache]

I'm glad to. i was just a couple days away from parting the quad out!!