title is pretty self explanatory. i got my blaster tuned in pretty good today because of adjusting my needle clip but it was in high 20s to low 30s weather.
does anyone adjust their needle clips for the weather?
- Thread starter 2000chevy
- Start date
i've considered it when jumping up 2 sizes on the main and adjusting the airscrew, but have found i must be running slightly rich to begin with on the needle in middle clip position, cause she rips hard in the colder weather
(dgh needle in 34mm carb)
on my stock carbs i've never adjusted it with good results.
but if thats what your bike wanted...kudos for adjusting it !!!
(dgh needle in 34mm carb)
on my stock carbs i've never adjusted it with good results.
but if thats what your bike wanted...kudos for adjusting it !!!
the only thing im concerned with is that i have it on the second clip from the bottom and in warm weather it will run excessively rich. It seems to have done it good it will pick the wheels off the ground in third gear im pretty happy about that fact
Have you also adjusted main jet for the weather? The more it is modded the more you have to adjust for changing conditions.
Second from bottom is no great deal depending oin what pipe you run.
The pipes that favour low/mid seem to like a richer needle mix, I run a DMC Alien and anything but the bottom clip see me running too lean up to 3/4 throttle in winter.
I lower the needle one clip in summer.
The pipes that favour low/mid seem to like a richer needle mix, I run a DMC Alien and anything but the bottom clip see me running too lean up to 3/4 throttle in winter.
I lower the needle one clip in summer.
OK I was just seeing if the needle clip was like the main jet (adjust for the weather) I'm running an fmf so yeah it is kind of low/ mid pipe. At what temperature do you guys reccomend changing main jets or needle clips?
Yes, I adjust the needle on the bikes and sleds as well as the main.
I adjust the main jet first, often erring on the rich side, then fine tune the needle clip for most power. The clip can be changed on the trail so I actually play with that much more often than the main jet. I find I ride on the needle about 90% of the time (especially with more powerful machines always running 25%-75% throttle) so it is the most important "tune" to keep right. .
You can still fry an engine by having the needle too lean, even if the main is rich, so beware.
Steve
I adjust the main jet first, often erring on the rich side, then fine tune the needle clip for most power. The clip can be changed on the trail so I actually play with that much more often than the main jet. I find I ride on the needle about 90% of the time (especially with more powerful machines always running 25%-75% throttle) so it is the most important "tune" to keep right. .
You can still fry an engine by having the needle too lean, even if the main is rich, so beware.
Steve
You change the clip on the trail? Can you share some secrets? It took me all of about 3-4 minutes to completely disassemble but around 10-15 to reassemble once I did it a couple times. The hard part for me was getting the throttle cable clip on while holding the spring back with my other hand.
Lots of motors have been wrecked by not paying enough attention to the needle.
The main jet only comes into play at 3/4 throttle, until then it is the idle and needle circuits that control the AFR.
If the main jet is way too small, it can affect the needle as it may not be able to supply the demand, this condition is rare but has been known.
If the main jet is way too rich, all it will affect is WOT, as the needle will control the AFR up to 3/4 throttle.
By running a rich main and a lean needle, you can fry a piston real quick.
Perform a plug chop at 1/2 and 3/4 throttle to read the AFR controlled by the needle.
With a snowmobile it is generally a breeze, because you have easy access to the top of the carbs.
Screw off the tops of the carb and have at it.
With bikes like this KTM 125 I loosen the carb boot clamps just enough to spin the carb sideways and spin the carb cap off.
Having the throttle cable free enough to do this is important.
This is the carb on my KTM powered Blaster:
(Hoses removed for clearity, mud left on for realism...)
A slight twist of the carb and the cap and slide come out easily.
I use a "tee handle" and 6mm socket to loosen the clamps and remove the screw in the slide.
KTM "Fix everything" tool kit:
Once the slide is out I have a 6mm special screw to remove on the Keihin, some carbs have a Philips screw and some are just a hooked cable and spring. Once out, you have access to the needle. I gently press the "E-clip" against something to unclip it off the needle. WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T DROP ANY PARTS! I reclip it where I need it and put it all back together. About 5 minutes work.
Do not over tighten stuff, or you will strip the cap or Philips screws. I like to put graphite or teflon spray on the throttle cap screws to preserve them and keep them removable.
Hope this helps!
Steve
Thanks. I know this is pretty off topic but does anyone know where to buy a case saver? I've been looking around and I can see they're a little hard to find
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