Any recommendations for a starting point on cold weather jetting?
My son wants to ride his 88 blaster this winter. We live in michigan.
My son wants to ride his 88 blaster this winter. We live in michigan.
Cold weather jetting
- Thread starter Tommyb6273
- Start date
My original blaster I bought new in 1996 came with a stock 230 main and an extra 240 it said to install in temps under freezing
I either never changed it or did the first year and never changed it back ? and rode in the winter many times, under freezing ? I'd think so.
I assume the 230 main was good at sea level, which requires richer jetting than here at 1800' elevation, so was the 230 main rich the whole time here ?
it ripped (for stock) I had it for 8 years and never fouled a plug or rebuilt it, sold it still starting on 1-2 kicks, even in the cold.
What we've learned on here .... the stock blaster with no mods and the oil injection will take a beating and keep going
once we start modding them .... pipes/filters/engine mods, etc. .... they become much more sensitive to jetting changes to prevent damage
but they are so "de-tuned" in bone stock form, it takes alot to damage them.
We've never compiled solid numbers on temp jetting, as every bike and elevation is different
Bone stock ? .... throw a 240 in it for temps under 40 and see how it does ? maybe up another size for every 20 degrees lower ?
give at all it can take without fouling plugs or running poorly at full throttle
the airscrew should be tuned for highest idle, I'd think a 1/2 turn in for easy starting and good idle in colder temps ?
I've never changed the clip position or needle on a stock blaster carb, for any reason.
I've been going 3 sizes up from a 155 for summer to a 162 in winter on my modded/Keihin carb blaster and doing well
under freezing I stay riding the couch nowadays
I either never changed it or did the first year and never changed it back ? and rode in the winter many times, under freezing ? I'd think so.
I assume the 230 main was good at sea level, which requires richer jetting than here at 1800' elevation, so was the 230 main rich the whole time here ?
it ripped (for stock) I had it for 8 years and never fouled a plug or rebuilt it, sold it still starting on 1-2 kicks, even in the cold.
What we've learned on here .... the stock blaster with no mods and the oil injection will take a beating and keep going
once we start modding them .... pipes/filters/engine mods, etc. .... they become much more sensitive to jetting changes to prevent damage
but they are so "de-tuned" in bone stock form, it takes alot to damage them.
We've never compiled solid numbers on temp jetting, as every bike and elevation is different
Bone stock ? .... throw a 240 in it for temps under 40 and see how it does ? maybe up another size for every 20 degrees lower ?
give at all it can take without fouling plugs or running poorly at full throttle
the airscrew should be tuned for highest idle, I'd think a 1/2 turn in for easy starting and good idle in colder temps ?
I've never changed the clip position or needle on a stock blaster carb, for any reason.
I've been going 3 sizes up from a 155 for summer to a 162 in winter on my modded/Keihin carb blaster and doing well
under freezing I stay riding the couch nowadays
Very helpful, appreciate it.
My original blaster I bought new in 1996 came with a stock 230 main and an extra 240 it said to install in temps under freezing
I either never changed it or did the first year and never changed it back ? and rode in the winter many times, under freezing ? I'd think so.
I assume the 230 main was good at sea level, which requires richer jetting than here at 1800' elevation, so was the 230 main rich the whole time here ?
it ripped (for stock) I had it for 8 years and never fouled a plug or rebuilt it, sold it still starting on 1-2 kicks, even in the cold.
What we've learned on here .... the stock blaster with no mods and the oil injection will take a beating and keep going
once we start modding them .... pipes/filters/engine mods, etc. .... they become much more sensitive to jetting changes to prevent damage
but they are so "de-tuned" in bone stock form, it takes alot to damage them.
We've never compiled solid numbers on temp jetting, as every bike and elevation is different
Bone stock ? .... throw a 240 in it for temps under 40 and see how it does ? maybe up another size for every 20 degrees lower ?
give at all it can take without fouling plugs or running poorly at full throttle
the airscrew should be tuned for highest idle, I'd think a 1/2 turn in for easy starting and good idle in colder temps ?
I've never changed the clip position or needle on a stock blaster carb, for any reason.
I've been going 3 sizes up from a 155 for summer to a 162 in winter on my modded/Keihin carb blaster and doing well
under freezing I stay riding the couch nowadays
