My quad has been smoking something terrible. After my explanation of what it had been doing I was told it was the was the clutch side seal....was told it would be an easy job..WRONG lol...I pulled the old seal out, got the new one in (or so I think) an got everything put back together...added some fluid and decided I best check the kicker...NO PRESSURE...so I took the cover off again, finally got everything lined up for the kicker..once again got everything back on, added some more fluid...started it up, smoked like crazy (maybe even worse than before) and also NO CLUTCH...what in the world did I do!!!!
Clutch side seal replacement gone bad...
- Thread starter jlgray81
- Start date
probably going to smoke like crazy as it has full crankcase pressure now and will burn off all that trans oil laying in there and the pipe.
a leakdown test will tell ya if the new seal actually sealed, grooves on the inner bushing are common.
did you get the clutch back together correctly ?.......
washers behind basket in exact order ?
didn't lose the ball bearing ?
dots aligned on pressure plate and basket ?
proper clutch assembly in here:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed.51169/
non clutch related:
dots aligned on main drive gear and balancer gear ?
a leakdown test will tell ya if the new seal actually sealed, grooves on the inner bushing are common.
did you get the clutch back together correctly ?.......
washers behind basket in exact order ?
didn't lose the ball bearing ?
dots aligned on pressure plate and basket ?
proper clutch assembly in here:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed.51169/
non clutch related:
dots aligned on main drive gear and balancer gear ?
Also, they may sometimes leak between colar and crank. Seal colar and key to crank with 3bond or simular. Alow proper time for sealer to set, especially if rtv (24hrs)
Awk, im pretty sure i got it in correct order. Theres a plate that has a single screw that sits over the top of the seal. I was told that I might need to loosen it a bit. Anyways, I think my beat bet is taking it to the shop so I dont mess it up anymore than it already is lol
1. NO, that retainer screw needs tightened and loctite used on it , there is no "loosen it up"
2. "beat bet" ???????
Could have been "bust bit", that would have stumped even the best a deciphering.damn auto correct
If you had a Clymers manual there would be no worry of "messing up".
So easy even this caveman can understand.
FYI, shops usually charge more if things are apart and/or already fubared.
So easy even this caveman can understand.
FYI, shops usually charge more if things are apart and/or already fubared.
I just cant stop thinking about WHY I couldn't do this myself..I continue asking myself did I do this, did I do that etc...So, before I break down and go to the shop...I AM going to try this again tomorrow afternoon..I believe the seal is in properly..Im just going to disassemble the clutch again and take my time...Wish me luck guys lol..Maybe I can be riding by dinner time!!
If/while you have it apart, seal the colar and key to the crankshaft. 3Bond will work good. If RVT allow it to cure before adding oil (24 hrs @ room temp)
Wasn't trying to be harsh before, only funny
Wasn't trying to be harsh before, only funny
