change out piston, need help!

Stevee159

New Member
Apr 28, 2013
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so i recently bought a new piston for my blaster. had everything bored out to the right size, now i got it back and need help replacing the old piston for the new sized one...anyone know of any videos to show me how to or is it just a few simple steps?? thanks!
 
is there an easy way explaining how to do it...i havent gotit back yet i just took it to get it bored and hopefully put it back together tomorrow
 
  • Get your work area CLEAN
  • Do not drop any parts, keep them on a stable surface
  • Get a clean rag and wedge it in the crankcase below the conrod as to close the opening into the crankcase in case you drop a circlip down the motor.
  • Keep the conrod at TDC
  • Remove the old circlips and piston.
  • Remeber another name for a circlip is a Pinggone. Because they go "Ping" and then they are gone! So be careful when removing and inserting these guys, they will be gone for ever, A tip: Keep another rag handy and cover the clip while you work it out with a pliers or small screwdriver
  • Clean the surface of the crankcase for the base gasket THOUROUGHLY! wipe it with thinners or something,
  • Place the base gasket over the studs.
  • Clean conrod and get your new piston ready
  • Make sure the arrow on the piston faces forwards and the intake windows fave the back of the motor!
  • Locate the piston over the conrod, Oil the roller bearing with 2 stroke oil and insert the wrist pin and roller bearing and attache the piston to the rod
  • Insert the circlips CAREFULLY, one on either side.
  • Locate the openings of the circlip according to Ken OConners videos.
  • Clean the cylinder thouroughly with brake cleaner and dishwashing soap on a paper towel.
  • Gently compress the rings on the piston by hand and slide the cylinder over the rings.
  • Lower the cylinder down onto the locators and studs.
  • The rest you should be able to figure out!
 
thanks a lot guys i figured it out...but one thing, when it starts, it revs high and then slowly dies down. does that sounds normal?
 
Air leak! did you torque the cylinder and head nuts to correct torque settings?

Add to that list the bolts that cause the most trouble when it comes to air leaks, the ones that bolt the carb boot and reed cage on.

5.8 ft lbs incrementally (little by little ) and diagonally, using a Copper RTV sealant.
 
Add to that list the bolts that cause the most trouble when it comes to air leaks, the ones that bolt the carb boot and reed cage on.

5.8 ft lbs incrementally (little by little ) and diagonally, using a Copper RTV sealant.

indeed, reed cage a major suspect when leak testing!