CARB question(s)

[mugRBG]

So I've noticed that when I go to start my Blaster cold, the choke won't stay pulled out....I have to make sure I'm in neutral (left hand holding the choke, can't hold the clutch), hold the choke while I kick it, and than it will start first or second kick....But that gets annoying, is this a common hassle?

Also I'm not sure if anyone will know what I'm talking about, but if you are sitting on the quad, what is the gold (gold on mine) lever that looks to have two notches and meets the top (neck/rounded top) on the carb? Should that top part on the carb move somewhat freely? All of what I'm talking about is all in the direct vicinity of the Mikuni stamp on the carb.

I was looking today just to get a better idea and noticed one screw on the left side of the carb. Is this air/fuel? Occasionally it seems like my Blaster will warm up and than it doesn't have the strongest idle.....I don't know if this is because of the choke, because I have that lever with the two grooves meeting the carb in the wrong position, or if I need to get some confidence and start messing around (trial and error) with my carb adjustments.

 

[Wildcard2]

Your choke could possibly be worn out and that part alone can be replaced for pretty cheap, the screw on the left side is the air screw. I will have Brandon get back to you and he can give you a better run down on the carb then I can.

 

[mugRBG]

Your choke could possibly be worn out and that part alone can be replaced for pretty cheap, the screw on the left side is the air screw. I will have Brandon get back to you and he can give you a better run down on the carb then I can.

Thanks. I appreciate the response.

I'm most interested in what position that lever should be at while riding....if you can even call it a "lever". If you are sitting on the quad, it would be on the left side just a little back from the choke...you can't see the Mikuni stamp unless you push it back....and there is a piece on the top that is bent inward with two grooves that meets the neck/rounded part on the top of the carb.

 

[Wildcard2]

Sounds like the detent in the choke is worn out. I'll look up a price on a starter plunger if you want to hit me back up for it on Monday, send a PM. Best I can tell on your description of the "gold lever" on the side of the carb, it's your cap lock. It holds the carb cap from rotating and becoming loose. You should not be able to freely move the carb cap, tighten it to the right by hand as tight as you can get it then set the lock. There's no specific position the grooves have to be in, just line them up the way they fit best once the cap's tight. If you don't you can have some nice tuning issues to deal with.

-Brandon

 

[mugRBG]

Sounds like the detent in the choke is worn out. I'll look up a price on a starter plunger if you want to hit me back up for it on Monday, send a PM. Best I can tell on your description of the "gold lever" on the side of the carb, it's your cap lock. It holds the carb cap from rotating and becoming loose. You should not be able to freely move the carb cap, tighten it to the right by hand as tight as you can get it then set the lock. There's no specific position the grooves have to be in, just line them up the way they fit best once the cap's tight. If you don't you can have some nice tuning issues to deal with.

-Brandon

:-[:- Definitely going to have to tighten that up. I noticed it the one day when I was deciding whether to pull the carb and clean it, if not even rebuilt it before winter.

I must say it was pretty loose, because as I knelt down I did move it forward in position (so it would hold the cap in place) and noticed the cap turn just from moving the cap lock. I had never realized how many details you could squeeze out of a Blaster for the best possible performance and life of the Blaster.

I wish I had gotten more involved when I had my first Blaster, then I wouldn't need to be posting these stupid questions. X( B) I basically never had to do anything with my first Blaster (89 white/red), I pounded on it and just changed the oil regularly/premixed/greased-lubed without any problems....exception being 1 destroyed clutch cover.

 

[mugRBG]

I figured I'd revive an old thread rather than start a new one...

I am having a hard time figuring out how to get the jetting right. It seems like you could get on the throttle in 3-6 and it takes a second before it really hits you....like you are on it but than there is a surge. Sorry, I suck at explaining this sh*t. Anyone else ever experience this?

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The main jet right now says 240....the one thing I have picked up on is that during the winter it will tend to run leaner because it will be sucking more air, should I consider changing the main jet to 250 for the winter, wouldn't just doing that alone make it richer?

There is one place I go and buy sh*t, they said that I'd have to call back and order a main jet if I wanted one, told me to call back Monday when I was there just yesterday (Saturday).....grabbed another bottle of BR Gearsaver 75W, Klotz R50, Maxima Waterproof grease, and a B8ES NGK plug.

 

[yb200]

i think with a pipe and k&n you should be running around a 260 or 270.....and the surge of power you feel is the "POWER BAND"

 

[nofxfan125]

i think with a pipe and k&n you should be running around a 260 or 270.....and the surge of power you feel is the "POWER BAND"

LOL You sure this reply wasn't meant for another thread, maybe WTF Jet?