So I know I posted a similar thread, but with this damage to the cylinder can I just run my bike without fixing or getting it bored? The reason I ask is the piston is a weisco 66mm forged it's a good $$ piston just want to see if it will hurt anything mostly bc I don't wanna shell out $60 for the note and another $100 for the piston. I mean how bad could it be? Will it really damage the engine any more?
Can I run the engine with this cylinder damage
- Thread starter jasindude1
- Start date
it will be bad, probably have low compression and other problems.
if you run with that piston and cylinder expect to be paying even more when it does go down the sh*tter
Alright fair enough, I fig I would just just throw it out there. I figured I would get shot down.
Not to sound like a jerk, BUT ARE YOU SERIOUS??? Are you really that cheap? Why is it that lots of folks don't want to do things correct the first time, but will spend more money later on after the half assed method didn't work in the first place? Look at it this way... You would eventually be purchasing multiple gasket sets to do multiple tear downs because it wasn't done correctly the first time, and that's just the gaskets.
That cylinder wouldn't support any form of compression for any length of time. The "custom exhaust port" snagged a ring because it either lost all the port chamfering, or because the locating pin in the piston came out and let one of the rings rotate in the cylinder eventually letting it jump into the exhaust port. That cylinder is neither round, strait , or taper free courtesy of that sand dune in there.
By the way, is the piston you have the one that snagged the ring? Or was it another piston before the one you have now?
which brings us to pistons ,seals , and bearings...
That wiseco piston you have isn't as great as you might think it is. I've used them too, but had issues with a few of them (Banshees, Blasters, Yz's, etc). The issues I've had was the piston ring locating pins coming out letting the ring(s) rotate hence snagging a port (what you have on your cylinder), or the piston heats un-evenly and four corner seizes because of improper warm up (operator error). As for that "Wiseco Lite" being lighter weight than a cast piston, its not. I have put them on a scale and weighed them against all the other cast pistons I have used over the years and they are either the same or more in weight than a cast piston. Even though you have a wiseco I doubt its even fitting that cylinder properly.
Now about not wanting spend the money... I get it, but lets get real...what about that poor bottom end??? Which also brings us to the crank seals and bearings...
That bottom end is going to need to be split, crank removed for a COMPLETE rebuild, case inspected for damage, NEW seals installed, COMPLETE re-assembly including the top end, then the whole thing needs to be leak-down tested (easy to do...Awk sells the testers or build your own) BEFORE its started.
Bottom line what I'm saying... Save your money for a bit longer and DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. Trust me and everybody else that tells you this. This will give you time to learn things like disassembly of the bottom end, how to build a pressure tester, how to inspect components for wear, and how to re-assemble.
You will also be able to get that sense of accomplishment! Research is FREE. Questions are FREE. We're here to help, but don't expect anyone on here to say that you can slap that cylinder on there and have it work. Come on, get real.
But oh so informative and straight to the point!longest 1 post rant in BF history
Doesn't want to spend the money to do it correctly, but is looking a +3 cranks, CT/Airsal big bore kits, porting, head re-chambering, etc. Asking questions makes sense, but being a mooch when it comes to doing things correctly NEVER pans out.
Just a thought... Perhaps part out the project blaster, and take the funds from the sale(s) to finance up-grades on your good blaster.
