bought a blaster
- Thread starter fresh86
- Start date
that b1 pipe kit when bought new came with a 310main jet and breather plugs for the airbox.
not sure if you need the 310 but,i do know this that pipe really needs to have the airbox modifyed or remove the lid
welcome to the forum
not sure if you need the 310 but,i do know this that pipe really needs to have the airbox modifyed or remove the lid
welcome to the forum
The air lid is off I got the bike from a lady that could not get it to run right I took the carb apart and it a 230 & a 32.5 jets so went to the Yamaha dealer and put in a 280& a 37.5 jets in it. It helped but still doese not seam right those were the biggest jets they had in stock
everyone on here will tell you the stock 32.5 pilot jet works the best.
what is the airscrew set at?
is oil injection blocked off?
what plug are you running?
is the washer under the main jet/and or do you have all the carb parts in there?
needle clip position?
what is the airscrew set at?
is oil injection blocked off?
what plug are you running?
is the washer under the main jet/and or do you have all the carb parts in there?
needle clip position?
is the oil injection nipple capped?
have you tried adjusting airscrew?
toomey instruction are 3/4 of a turn out,but everyone usallly starts at 1 1/2 turns out.
here is a pic of oil nipple blocked off with a vacum plug you can buy at an auto parts store 2-3 bucks
of course it is recommended to leak test the engine,and i would do a compression test
have you tried adjusting airscrew?
toomey instruction are 3/4 of a turn out,but everyone usallly starts at 1 1/2 turns out.
here is a pic of oil nipple blocked off with a vacum plug you can buy at an auto parts store 2-3 bucks
of course it is recommended to leak test the engine,and i would do a compression test
compression around 120 psi 100psi would need a rebuild.
look at the reeds if they are cracked or chipped,then replace
stock reeds are fine unless you want to upgrade
look at the reeds if they are cracked or chipped,then replace
stock reeds are fine unless you want to upgrade
ToomeyB1 with airbox lid off, and 32:1 premix at sea level.
320 main jet, 32.5 pilot and needle in middle slot.
Plug chop to confirm.
Adjust the idle speed before you plug chop.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
320 main jet, 32.5 pilot and needle in middle slot.
Plug chop to confirm.
Adjust the idle speed before you plug chop.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
