Blaster Won't Start

[htown05blaster]

Whats going on Blaster World?

I'm in need of some assistance regarding my out of comissioned 2005 Blaster. About a month ago i rolled her over into a bayou ending upside down. CLutch was frozen stiff but eventually broke free. After she sat for a day she cranked back up but only ran for about 35 mins and she died out and no more starting. ANd when she did start up she will die out if throttle wasnt held in. Ive been reading articles on Blasters not starting and decided to post my own issues. After tearing the engine apart i ran across a piston issue and others i believe. I have photos and ill post them. ALso how would i remove the piston?

Also with me being new to the Blaster world would a rebuild be difficult? And now for the pics

 

[brandoz28]

there are little clips that you have to remove on the sides of the wristpin on the piston. after removing those then the wristpin will slide out and you can remove the piston. looks like its due for a bore/hone

 

[htown05blaster]

due for a bore hon?

new to the blaster world please tell me more if you have time

 

[justtwistit]

due for a bore hon?

new to the blaster world please tell me more if you have time

he means that u need to bore out the cylinder jug that means to cut the jug to the next size like .10 over and so on
and then hone it that means to clean the jug with a flex-a-hone or similar method.

 

[htown05blaster]

What would the price tag be on all of this?

would it be cheaper to part her out and get her runing again?


Frame is in awesome shape and body is too

 

[roadkill]

by looks of you piston you definitely need to get your cylinder bored and a bigger piston on mine it cost 250 with all the work and parts i needed

 

[brandoz28]

he means that u need to bore out the cylinder jug that means to cut the jug to the next size like .10 over and so on
and then hone it that means to clean the jug with a flex-a-hone or similar method.

actually its .010 of an inch or .25 mm

 

[yamaha205205]

i just did mine it was $250 its not hard at all well to me not sure on how much experience you have on engines

 

[B_Rad_NC]

Alot of these guys prices are a little off. I only pay 65$ for a bore/hone/port chamfer and then it costs about 100$ for a piston and gasket kit. So maybe 175 all together. That wear on the carb slide is normal. Looks like a stock piston too.

 

[htown05blaster]

Do i really have to do a bore/hone upgrade?

Can i go back with stock piston and etc?

Would this piston kit work?


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[blasterfreek30]

get a weisco piston kit bud, they are the best

 

[htown05blaster]

Thanks for that bud

SO can i go back with stock piston or it has to be the .10 or 25 mm over??

Yamaha Blaster Wiseco .010 (66.25)mm Piston Kit YFS200 : eBay Motors (item 200313736774 end time Jun-18-10 20:21:56 PDT)

 

[roadkill]

what i did was brought it to the guy that was gonna do the boring and he got the piston kit for me that was the right size did the work then called me when it was done what he did was figure out how much it needed to be bored (.030 over) then matched the piston to the cylinder. idk if you know this but the clearance between the piston and the cylinder for a wiseco should be .003 someone correct me if im wrong so if you buy a piston kit and its the wrong size then youll have to buy a new one

 

[sicivicdude]

Absolutely correct, wiseco recommends .002" for their pro-lite series pistons but .003 isn't a huge deal.

My pro-lite is sitting in my jub happy at .005 clearance and I will continue to run it that way until it grenades and then .010 overbore and put a wiseco slug back in it!

You can use bore gauges (if you have a set) and a micrometer or dial caliper to determine how much needs to be taken out (or even what bore size you currently have) so that you don't order the wrong part. If you take it to a machine shop to have them determine the size, you're taking the burden of measuring off of yourself but you don't know what type of piston kit they might be getting you until you get ready to pop the top back on.

Cast pistons tend to disintegrate as they begin to come apart and leave crud all in your bottom end. Worst case scenario, part of the piston breaks off (like the intake piston skirt which is already broken on your old piston and not far from coming off), gets between the bottom of the crankcase and the crank shaft throw and breaks the bottom of the case out requiring artful TIG welding or a case replacement. Either way the entire bottom end has to come apart.

So I prefer forged pistons which will scour all to pieces and lock the top end of the motor up so tight you may have to smack the piston down as you pull the jug up in order to remove the cylinder but I have never seen a forged piston break from a seize.

So in summation;
#1 a top end rebuild isn't that expensive, usually under $250 depending on the machine shop and brand of piston used. So go for it!

#2 Take your cylinder to a machine shop to determine if it needs an overbore

#3 Get a forged piston in the correct size to match what your cylinder is going to be bored to and then take the new piston and cylinder back to the machine shop to have the cylinder bore matched perfectly to the new piston.

#4 ride happy!