Blaster runs but Boggs at mid to wot

frankin blaster

frankin blaster

New Member
Aug 14, 2012
370
4
0
weirton wv
So as some of you know I've been having fuel delivery issues I was running a280 main with the current mods air lid off k an n and exhaust. Found the 280 was dumping way to Much fuel. Now have a 250 main installed and it starts right up can actually move now but at wot it Boggs itself out. Did a plug chop and from every chop I've seen it seems to me that I'm still a little to rich but not positive can get a pic up soon. Is there any light on this matter? Getting so fed up I'm about to put it all back the stock and give up X(
 
where's your air screw setting and needle clip position ?
has it been completely torn down and cleaned thoroughly ?
 
Have ya checked the float? correct height? Done an airleak test on it, these are things I do when having jetting issues, that just don't seem right.
 
Just spraying carb cleaner is not quite enough, one must completly dissasemble the carb, pull all the jets out and make sure they and their passages are clean.

Perform a leak down test, set the float level and adjust the idle then do a plug chop to see where the jetting is at.
 
how can you not know where your airscrew is set at ?, besides the float height being set, the airscrew is the next thing that gets adjusted, and those settings plus the needle will effect the main jet
start at the bottom and work up, that is after completely disassembling and properly cleaning it, and setting the float height to 20-21.5 mm
the airscrew should be .5 - 2.5 turns out and set to whatever setting acheives highest idle (1/2 turn every 15/20 seconds until high idle is found)

has this thing been leakdown tested ?

here's some reading you need (there will be a pop quiz tomorrow at 9 am. sharp, LOL)..............

carb cleaning
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/

float height adjustment
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/

jetting 101
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/
 
Awk08 said:
how can you not know where your airscrew is set at ?, besides the float height being set, the airscrew is the next thing that gets adjusted, and those settings plus the needle will effect the main jet
start at the bottom and work up, that is after completely disassembling and properly cleaning it, and setting the float height to 20-21.5 mm
the airscrew should be .5 - 2.5 turns out and set to whatever setting acheives highest idle (1/2 turn every 15/20 seconds until high idle is found)

has this thing been leakdown tested ?

here's some reading you need (there will be a pop quiz tomorrow at 9 am. sharp, LOL)..............

carb cleaning
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/

float height adjustment
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/

jetting 101
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/
Click to expand...

the only reason i say i dont know is because ive never messed with it i know the floats are fine sitting at 21.5 right now everything ran very well untill i started doing little mods here an there like the air lid and so on nothing major though. i know little to nothing about carbs maybe i shouldnt have messed with it to begin with.
 
Before you attempt a plug chop the float level and the idle screw must be set as it affects readings on the needle and the start of the main jet.
 
Blaaster said:
Before you attempt a plug chop the float level and the idle screw must be set as it affects readings on the needle and the start of the main jet.
Click to expand...

i have no idle screw i had tors and deleted it with the moose racing cap and cable so i have adjustment but no actual idle screw when i do my block off im actually changing carbs to a flat slide carb with idle screw...
 
returned everything back to stock 1.5 turns out on air screw ran great no bogging.... rode for 2 hrs and needed to get towed out of the woods because it started messing up again.... maybe a carb rebuild soon... any other suggestions?
 
have you checked the reeds ?
did you try a new plug out on the trails or since getting home ?
is the brass wahser under the main jet ??
 
yep reeds are brand new only one ride on them... brass washer is in place.... and had 3 new plugs so i tried changing it out in the woods but no luck.... it died and would not start again thats why i got towed home



also it runns way better with the air screw at 1 turn instead of 1.5 messed with that one screw for hours thought i had it and i didnt :(
 
It takes less than a minute to adjust the air screw if the carb is clean and the motor has no air leaks.

Clean out the carb, adjust the float level, and check for air leaks.

Make sure the pilot jet is a 32.5.
 
well when i started messing with the air screw i had no hight idle spot it stayed the same no matter what all the way in it wouldnt start and all the way out wouldnt start... so i took it to 1 turn started then ran fine but its screwing up again.... not being a db here but for you and other ppl blaaster adjusting the air screw may be nothing but to me because ive never adjusted a carb in my life i have no idea what the hell im doing... may want to take that into consideration...

but on the other note i thank everyone for their help ill buy a carb rebuild kit and clean it and attempt to put it back together
 
/\ /\ /\

I was not having a shot at you, I was trying to say that if you had to mess with the air screw for hours, then there may be an underlaying problem.

If the idle cannot be adjusted , and stay adjusted by the following method, there are other carb/air leak related problems.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
Blaaster said:
/\ /\ /\

I was not having a shot at you, I was trying to say that if you had to mess with the air screw for hours, then there may be an underlaying problem.

If the idle cannot be adjusted , and stay adjusted by the following method, there are other carb/air leak related problems.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Click to expand...
i truly apoligize i have so much going on in my life right now.... but back to the carb issue i have no actual idle screw i do have the tors delete cap in it and can adjust it like that for a somewhat idle ill mess with it more this weekend and see whats going on again i do truly apoligize
 
Apology not required, as I may have seemed a little harsh, a smile is so hard to see over a keyboard.

The carb must be crap free and the float level must be right before the idle can be adjusted correctly
 
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