Hello guys, I know theres stickies about this. But I haven't found anything that helped. About one month ago, I baught an 02 yamaha Blaster. And It ran fine. Two days ago I tried starting my atv, and it started then died with the use of throttle and bogged. I thought I may have fouled my plug, so I changed it. It started after many kicks but When I used throttle It would bog and die. Now, it will not start. Any Ideas on what I can do or check to fix it. This is my first quad, and need help. Thankyou! The top end was rebuilt three months ago, and ran fine. Can someone help me with my dilemma . Thanks!
Blaster Problem Starting
- Thread starter 02MatteBlaster
- Start date
Welcome to the forum. Everybody is going to tell you the same thing and it MUST be done. You need to do a leak test and a compression test. AWK sells the leak tester and you can buy/rent a compression tester from any auto parts store. These tests need to be done to diagnose the problem. What mods does the bike have? What jets are in the carb? Are the reeds fully closed?
Also check the TORS. If it is still hooked up disconnect it.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/
Hey there! Thanks for answering. I bought this from a guy who is a motorcycle mechanic. But im not sure about the reeds but I do know it has an FMF exhuast and it is borred .020 over.
If you would have put that sentence in the search box you would have answered your own question. Here ya go. It's pretty easy. Take your time and pay attention as you are disassembling it.
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height, like shown here......
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
you want to turn the carb and hold it on a slight angle to measure the float height, like shown here......
it should just barely be touching the inner needle, not depressing it,
It is possible to check the fuel level by attaching a length of clear plastic tubing to the drain nipple , lifting it up the side of the carby, and cracking the drain screw.
The fuel should show in the pipe to the level of the carb body above the float bowl gasket.
Idle adjusting.
Set float level.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Last edited by a moderator:
I cleaned my airfilter today just to check that. And once I put it in, my quad started up and was able to stay on longer. But it feels as if there is no power and wont rev out.
Maybe the problem is too much fuel, is the needle and seat clean?
Does fuel dribble from the carby?
Does fuel dribble from the carby?
Tomorrow I will take apart the carburetor, I know there is no leaks or dribble of fuel from the Carb. Maybe the main jet was knocked loose?
Tomorrow I will take apart the carburetor, I know there is no leaks or dribble of fuel from the Carb. Maybe the main jet was knocked loose?
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