Blaster performance improvements

markmh

New Member
Mar 8, 2013
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Hi all, just joined this forum in search of some ideas.
I have a Race Blaster, well when I say race it was a race bike when I bought it, appearance wise it remains race, but the people I bought it off put a standard engine back in. Since then I have had a it rebored + whatever, cant remember what that was, new piston kit etc. It has a Fat Boy exhaust, K&N filter, standard carb, standard sprockets ect. It has Laeger extended arms with Elka shocks. Its had a lot of money spent on it, and goes really well, but would like a bit more, are there any mods that would help.

mark
 
Hi all, just joined this forum in search of some ideas.
I have a Race Blaster, well when I say race it was a race bike when I bought it, appearance wise it remains race, but the people I bought it off put a standard engine back in. Since then I have had a it rebored + whatever, cant remember what that was, new piston kit etc. It has a Fat Boy exhaust, K&N filter, standard carb, standard sprockets ect. It has Laeger extended arms with Elka shocks. Its had a lot of money spent on it, and goes really well, but would like a bit more, are there any mods that would help.

mark

Just wondering if this is the atv world blaster that was for sale a while ago its blue and yellow with a yellow frame and back plastics etc. as a friend of mine owns the yfz450 that was built along with it by atv world.

Phil
 
hi, no this one is red and blue with white plastics.

Oh okay, just wondered as the atv world one had all the mods you mentioned,
and welcome to the forum !!

Engine wise, there is an awful lot you can do to these starting with a good pipe, then you can move on to internal engine mods such as porting and head mods, it is easily possible to double the stock horsepower with a good port job, head mod and pipe. It really depends on your budget and what you want from it.
 
Hi, interesting, well it has a descent exhaust, I am guessing with head work, a new carb will be required.
 
WELCOMEto the
DIRT PILE ! ! !

In addition there is better air cleaner, bigger carb, timing mod (freeI:I).
A basic budget and how much/far you want to go, or in stages would help.

SPEED is only limited by cubic Dollars !!!:eek:
 
BTW search function works very well. You mentioned a pipe. What kind? And do you know for fact what main jet it has ?? Very important to avoid engine damage !!!
Also the intended use/style of riding would help. Carb size is a give and take, to big won't necessaserily make you faster.
 
Hi all.
Yes it has a FMF pipe Gold Series Fatty. Main jet is standard I guess. It has Pyramid reed valve too.

I am happy to get head/barrel ported etc and jetted to suit. But all that expense will get what sort of power increase - roughly. I use the bike for club meetings only, but it gets used hard.

So I dont wont something that will kill it after a few hours, something reliable but useable.
 
A good port job and head mod will give it a big power increase with little affect on engine life. Just make sure you learn about doing a leak down test and how to jet for modifications and weather changes.
 
You can get up around 30hp if you are willing to fork out the cash.

I will be reliable provided the jetting is correct and regular maintainence is carried out.,
 
It would pay to look in the carb to see what size main jet is in there.

It should #260 or bigger depending on your airfilter and airbox lid and the premix ratio.
 
It would pay to look in the carb to see what size main jet is in there.

It should #260 or bigger depending on your airfilter and airbox lid and the premix ratio.

X-2
on this !!! ^^^
Takes but a few minutes to check, for peace of mind.I:I
Takes but a few minutes to burn it down.:eek:
 
Hi, I wouldnt know which the main jet was, and how to see its size. Is it written on it?

30bhp, thats alot, and thats from a port/polish and carb. how do you get an open air box, I have cut a hole in the airbox casing and have routed a 1.5" pipe to it from outside so to speak.
 
This is not a stock carb but the main jet is the uppermost brass item, and it will have the size stamped on it.

7362-float-tang.jpg


Pipe, port, head rechambering, slightly larger carb, really wakes up a Blaster.

Take the lid off the airbox to open it, rejetting is a must if you change the breathing.

You should rejet if you have added that 1 1/2 tube to the airbox, and confirm with a plug chop.


Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.

WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg


You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet curcuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
 
Now Im really confused...I will find someone to source the work out to, someone local must have some know how...
 
I/We understand that it may seem overwhelming at first, but if you take the time to read, study, and reread the information it will become easy. I got you lincs to threads here on the forum that will help. Plus the download repair manual, plus linc to Clymers repair manual (which I prefer, I like having it right next to me at times).
Not to mention the vids on You tube.
None of us became experienced overnight. None here will give bad info or let you mess up.
What you $ave on one simple job will more than pay for a Clymers. Do you know what the shop rate is?:eek:

http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/
http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/
Yamaha Blaster Clymer Service Manual 1988 2002 M488 | eBay
 
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Hi you guys, all this information is so useful, thank you. Im really surprised to read that there is so much experience out there for a bike which is really a teenage bike. Well thats what I have said to me at the meetings I go to, " why are you riding a kids bike". I like the Blaster cos I am not huge myself and can throw it around. It doesnt keep up with the 450 Yamahas and others like it, I cant even get a wheelie out of mine, never have..
Anyway, I guess the first port of call is to get the head, ported, polished then do the tests you have outlined, would this be right?