Blaster not running

[Codyney97]

I have a Yamaha blaster and It is not running. When I got it I could ride it fine but if it died at ideal or I turned it off it would not start until it cooled down later on. So I cleaned the plug it was alright but started doing it again. So I cleanses the carb, I started it right before I cleansed it. After I cleansed it it stopped running at all. I bought a new coil. And then noticed the throttle cable was super loose. But it is not getting spark. So would that cable have to do with it?

 

[Herpderplol]

You should disbale the TORs and replace your throttle cable or adjust.

 

[Codyney97]

How do I disable that

 

[Herpderplol]

two different ways, depends on what year yours is

88-02, just unplug the 3 wire control box under the hood
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/

03+ years requires splicing wires as the tors unit is built into the CDI
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/

 

[Codyney97]

Thanks

 

[Codyney97]

Alright. I disabled that and it started first kick. But it was at like 100% throttle and I had to quickly turn it off. Is that because of the bad throttle cable?

 

[Fast6hand]

Alright. I disabled that and it started first kick. But it was at like 100% throttle and I had to quickly turn it off. Is that because of the bad throttle cable?

It very well could be. I would inspect it.

 

[Codyney97]

It very well could be. I would inspect it.

The cable is bad. There is no resistance in the throttle and it is screwed snug in the carb and handle so its pretty stretched

 

[speedyslyder]

The cable is bad. There is no resistance in the throttle and it is screwed snug in the carb and handle so its pretty stretched

or you put the slide in wrong?
there is a notch on slide that it aligns with carb

which would explain your pinned out idle.

also make sure top cover is tight and not cross threaded

 

[Codyney97]

or you put the slide in wrong?
there is a notch on slide that it aligns with carb

which would explain your pinned out idle.

also make sure top cover is tight and not cross threaded

YeH its good, it must be the cable itself

 

[speedyslyder]

YeH its good, it must be the cable itself

ok but a cable with nothing left to it would not lift the slide up in carb at 100% throttle.
sounds like you do need a cable so i guess you will find out
a stuck slide,bent needle,mangled spring that retracts the slide will

 

[Codyney97]

ok but a cable with nothing left to it would not lift the slide up in carb at 100% throttle.
sounds like you do need a cable so i guess you will find out
a stuck slide,bent needle,mangled spring that retracts the slide will

I'll double check it. Thanks

 

[Larry's Shee]

Needle may not have dropped into emulsion tube in center. When you push throttle, then let go, you should hear slide clicking/slammig shut.
If you do need a new cable, highly suggest TORS elimination cable w/idle screw.

Also, symptoms suggest air leak. Do leakdown test.

 

[Codyney97]

Needle may not have dropped into emulsion tube in center. When you push throttle, then let go, you should hear slide clicking/slammig shut.
If you do need a new cable, highly suggest TORS elimination cable w/idle screw.

Also, symptoms suggest air leak. Do leakdown test.

Do you guys have a link or something for a factory carb I can't find one and if I do it looks completely different

 

[Bluesman]

I started it right before I cleansed it. After I cleansed it it stopped running at all.

This should be your 1st clue that YOU did something wrong upon reassembly. What you experienced is the TORS doing it's job properly. (Killing the spark when the carb is stuck open and the thumb throttle is not being pushed)

You disabled the TORS and now the motor screams because the carb slide is not closing. Before you do anything more, pull the airbox boot off the carb and LOOK into the carb. I bet you see the slide part way up. This will more than likely be caused by the groove in the slide not matched up with the pin in the side of the carb. The bottom of the slide is cut away some on the air filter side, but I'm sure it will be blatantly obvious that the slide is part/all the way open.

It's still a good idea to disable the TORS, but if you're going to ride it, you need to find out why the slide is not closing. I can assure you the problem is not a stretched throttle cable.

 

[Codyney97]

This should be your 1st clue that YOU did something wrong upon reassembly. What you experienced is the TORS doing it's job properly. (Killing the spark when the carb is stuck open and the thumb throttle is not being pushed)

You disabled the TORS and now the motor screams because the carb slide is not closing. Before you do anything more, pull the airbox boot off the carb and LOOK into the carb. I bet you see the slide part way up. This will more than likely be caused by the groove in the slide not matched up with the pin in the side of the carb. The bottom of the slide is cut away some on the air filter side, but I'm sure it will be blatantly obvious that the slide is part/all the way open.

It's still a good idea to disable the TORS, but if you're going to ride it, you need to find out why the slide is not closing. I can assure you the problem is not a stretched throttle cable.

The slide is 100% I checked it. Its in proper and the needle is not jammed up or anything

 

[Bluesman]

The slide is 100% I checked it. Its in proper and the needle is not jammed up or anything

100% what? 100% open? 100% there? 100% clean?

 

[Codyney97]

100% what? 100% open? 100% there? 100% clean?

Its good. Nothing wrong with it

 

[Bluesman]

Jeez! This is like pulling teeth. So, you looked in the carb and the slide is all the way down? The cutaway is towards the air filter?

 

[Codyney97]

Jeez! This is like pulling teeth. So, you looked in the carb and the slide is all the way down? The cutaway is towards the air filter?

Yep