Blaster build for MX racing

deckpen

New Member
Sep 28, 2013
69
10
29
52
Aledo, Texas (Fort Worth)
Ok breaking down the Blaster for refresh and getting ready for next season. My son who is around 150 lbs will be racing MX next year with TQRA. Below are the current mods. I am looking for some help on the must haves for next season. I am on somewhat of a budget so I cannot afford the ultimate build. Maybe able to swing new arms or extended swingarm but probably cannot get both. Also thinking can get cylinder and head work done by Ken. Throw some ideas at me and what are the must haves. Also taking it all the way down to bare frame to have it powder-coated should I or do I have to have the frame gusseted for strength? Any help you can provide would be appreciated.

Current Mods
FMF Fatty
Oil Tank Eliminator
400 EX rear Shock
 
The stock frame is adequate for MX.

Before you look at getting it faster, width and suspension to make it handle better are a must.

No point in having speed if you cannot get around a burm or land a jump without smashing your teeth.

One can get it wider by using stud spacers and they seem to hold up ok.

Flip the front wheels for extra width.

Widening kits are available for the front and work ok, but the better option is aftermarket arms.

A Banshee rear axle will get you 3 3/4ins wider alone, used ones are available.

Good shocks are a must, some second hand ones come up on fleabay and even here in the marketplace.

When it comes to power a pipe and re chambered head are the best bang for your buck.

We run a 12:40 sprocket combo for that extra get up and go.

Pre mixing at 25:1 with the carby mounted directly on the throat are good for a few more herbs.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

My lads bike, widening kit 2" wheel stud spacers, Banshee axle and 2" studs. YFZ450 works shocks, DMC Alien pipe and re chambered toriodial head, very mild porting.

2hx1xn5.jpg


2utqc86.jpg
 
Blaaster would a fair trade be the Diamond J kit up front with the Banshee axle out back? Only issue I am concerned with in doing this though is getting the front lower but the rear is way up almost 70 muscle car look?
 
Lowering kit as on my lads bike is too available.

Some bump steer is noticeable with the kit, but can be helped by toe adjustments.

Being high does have some advantages for MX, the pics of my lads bike are setup for flat track.
 
The stock frame is adequate for MX.

Before you look at getting it faster, width and suspension to make it handle better are a must.

No point in having speed if you cannot get around a burm or land a jump without smashing your teeth.

One can get it wider by using stud spacers and they seem to hold up ok.

Flip the front wheels for extra width.

Widening kits are available for the front and work ok, but the better option is aftermarket arms.

A Banshee rear axle will get you 3 3/4ins wider alone, used ones are available.

Good shocks are a must, some second hand ones come up on fleabay and even here in the marketplace.

When it comes to power a pipe and re chambered head are the best bang for your buck.

We run a 12:40 sprocket combo for that extra get up and go.

Pre mixing at 25:1 with the carby mounted directly on the throat are good for a few more herbs.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

My lads bike, widening kit 2" wheel stud spacers, Banshee axle and 2" studs. YFZ450 works shocks, DMC Alien pipe and re chambered toriodial head, very mild porting.

X-2 on all this ^^^^ Budget for PC but not suspension is a flawed plan, sorry. Couple rattle cans is a better option IMO.

Depending on skill level, consider gusseting the frame, at least the area just behind lower A-arm attachment, lower tubes.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes!!
I:I​
 
Or you could just sell everything you have and buy my whole set up in 3 weeks. It has every possible thing done to it. the right way for MX. I also have a spare brand new built full race airsal motor as well. all AMA legal for schoolboy jr classes.
as for the frame, if your boy likes to air it out you must gusset it and weld a plate across between the bottom frame rails in front of the motor or it WILL crack where the down tubes meet it. also the swinger bolt holes will wear out you must weld in some chromoly washers to help this area last longer.
You always buy suspension first right after safety gear like Leatt and chest protector. Next will be a swingam or he will likely never get a holeshot against built quads. the short stocker will wheelie bad.
If you have interest in my set up send me a pm. It will all be for sale in 3 weeks. The current motor has 6 races on it and no practice time. the spare is brand new. Elka stage 4 shocks, Burgard +2 swinger, Chassis Inc Fab MGC +4+1 arms, fully gusseted, airsal motor with stuffer crank. fully ported beyond what airsal gives you, stainless lines, TAG bars, pro aluminum nerfs with heelguards. all new PC only one season old, all new bearings this season, many more race ready parts too long to list.
 
Goodman24X wish I had the money in hand to buy your setup. Sounds like the dream setup and I wouldn't be busting my knuckles every weekend. Do you have a picture that shows the gusseted area on your frame? Have the frame stripped bare and ready to work. So for the washers in the swing arm area you are referencing on the outside of the frame?
 
The tubes the front motor mounts are on need gussets where they meet the lower frame rails. Then weld steel between the lower frame rails from the steering base to the motor. As for the washers, I cut a piece of chromoly tubing and welded into the frame where the swinger bolt comes through on each side. I don't have any closeup pics.
Best advice is constantly search eBay and craigslist search. You will find deals on everything you need. Suspension and widening is the best and should be first. Banshee rear axle, a-arms and shocks.
 
We also cut a piece of tubing and ran it under the frame rails where the down tubes meet as well. Learned that trick from my mini quad days...those little frames cracked like glass...lol not so bad after about 15lbs of steel...lol
 
Ok think I understand will post picture of frame later today marking the areas discussed. Now another question. Once suspension is taking care of and assuming I have the cylinder ported and polished. For MX racing what pipes and silencers would you recommend. Currently have an FMF Fatty and Powercore 2. Opinions seem to be mixed across the forum. So from an MX racing perspective what should be used as I assume you want a clean power band from low to high without to much sacrifice on either end. Based on the tracks I have seen do not think we will see anything above 5th gear.
 
Goodman. Ok so I have attached the photos. First one marking the gussets from down tube to frame rails. The second one marking area where to install the plate to the frame. On the steel plate to frame what thickness would you recommend? Am I on the right track?
 

Attachments

  • Blaster Frame.jpg
    Blaster Frame.jpg
    51.2 KB · Views: 881
  • Blaster Frame1.jpg
    Blaster Frame1.jpg
    52 KB · Views: 849
Do a search for frame gusseting. you will get a good idea. Downtubes by motor should go towards front to lower tubes. Second pic is WAY overkill (imo) 3-4" wide just behind lower rear a-arm mount going side to side, maybe tied into mount.
 
Yep understood the down tube gusset just tried to illustrate it on an off angle picture. I did search and there are a lot of opinions on gusseting I was hoping to hear from those that are actually racing as I do not want to gusset every potential location at the sacrifice of adding additional weight. There is going be tough competition as it is and every ounce I can save but still be safe is the fine balance I am looking for.
 
Looks good and yes the gusset will go forward. Weld the plate on bottom of frame but cut it a bit so it goes up inside the frame rails just a bit. I gussets the rear subframe where it meets the main frame by swinger bolt and up under the seat near the rear grab bar. I also gussets every right angle in the front frame area near the arms. I think that was overkill.
Welding the tubing along the lower frame rail where it will bottom out is probably most effective.
 
Ok figured it was time for an update. So Christmas was kind to my son and my wallet hurts. So we got some Burgard +2 +1 Front A-Arms, Works Dual rate front shocks, Banshee axle. DG National Race Peg Nerfs. Frame gussets should be going on this weekend then paint for now maybe powder next winter. Picking up extra head and cylinder today to send to Ken Oconnor for MX porting. So getting close but under time crunch as first race is Feb. 22.
 
Ok figured it was time for an update. So Christmas was kind to my son and my wallet hurts. So we got some Burgard +2 +1 Front A-Arms, Works Dual rate front shocks, Banshee axle. DG National Race Peg Nerfs. Frame gussets should be going on this weekend then paint for now maybe powder next winter. Picking up extra head and cylinder today to send to Ken Oconnor for MX porting. So getting close but under time crunch as first race is Feb. 22.

Sounds good. Post some pics up when you've got the time.
 
Ok time for some updates with pictures. It is now on 4 wheels. Need to change cranks seals and waiting on Trinity exhaust system also need to install the heel guards and mount new front tires. Then we are ready to go for now.









 
Ok time for some updates with pictures. It is now on 4 wheels. Need to change cranks seals and waiting on Trinity exhaust system also need to install the heel guards and mount new front tires. Then we are ready to go for now.










That's looking really good man. Keep up the good work!