Blaster 2003 TORS and other problems HELP

[Michael sprigg]

Well im new to the site and new to owning a yamaha blaster 2003 only had it out twice and on the second outing engine cut out and wouldnt start.

After i got it home it would start but would only idle (sometimes will die) and once you touch throttle it would die and found out there is a very common problem with the TORS so i set off to fix this.
I cut the micro switch in thumb throttle and joining the two wires at the cdi end. And also disconnecting the carb side.

This made it better which allows me to rev the bike up to about 1/3 off the throttle anything after that it seems to die.
I have cleaned the carb and as far as im aware it is working as it should.
I have also tried to tune carb i.e fuel/air mixture screw but to no avail didnt fix it.

If some one has or had the same problems if you could try and point me in the right direction that would be great as i have tried to find a bike shop that knows about blasters in the NORTH EAST ENGLAND thanks

 

[Blaaster]

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/#post-703470

 

[Michael sprigg]

Thank you blaaster i have done this but still having problems with the bike revving up all the way

 

[Blaaster]

Have you taken a look inside the TORS brick on the carb top, sometimes things get stuck up in there.

 

[tbrooks]

Most times its necessary to thoroughly clean the carb and blow it out a few times to ensure its clean and I stole this from another thread:

Idle adjusting.-----------------

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

---------------------------

Then Plug chop after fitting the correct jets to suit your mods which will be forth coming when we know all your mods, elevation ect.

Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.


WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.


Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.

Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.

The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.

I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.

If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

 

[Michael sprigg]

Have you taken a look inside the TORS brick on the carb top, sometimes things get stuck up in there.

no i havnt. I have bought the full tors removal kit. New cable cap and idle screw but im a bit worried about doing this. As when i was messing with the bike the other day the revs got stuck on and wouldnt shut off even with key off kill switch off and even ht lead off and was still running. Then cut the fuel

Also just to mention. Whilst revving the quad i took the airbox cover off. And then it revved more as if it made it better and then put it back on just to see if it did do anything and the second i put it back on thats when it revved right up by itself and got stuck on full throttle

 

[Blaaster]

That shouts loudly to me as a massive air leak somewhere.

Next time that happens kick it into gear and stall the engine.

Leak test now!

 

[Michael sprigg]

That shouts loudly to me as a massive air leak somewhere.

Next time that happens kick it into gear and stall the engine.

Leak test now!

Where can i get one of those leak tester from.
Just to mention i sprayed wd40 onto engine whilst running and never revved up or anything. Could there still be a leak thanks for all the help im gettin hopefully get this quad sorted

 

[Blaaster]

For a leak tester PM Awk08.

Every two stroke owner must have a leak tester and test an engine on acquisition and twice a season!

 

[Michael sprigg]

For a leak tester PM Awk08.

Every two stroke owner must have a leak tester and test an engine on acquisition and twice a season!

So would the tors system kicked in bcus of a leak sorry for all the questions but i dont really no a lot about these thanks again

 

[tbrooks]

I'm not really sure but air leaks can cause a whole array of different symptoms and problems. Its always good to do first when trying to diagnose an issue, even if your sure you know what the problem is

 

[Blaaster]

So would the tors system kicked in bcus of a leak sorry for all the questions but i dont really no a lot about these thanks again

If I remember correctly, did you not say that you cut the wires to disable the TORS system.

As you have the removal kit, install it, then leak test.

No problems with the questions, keep them coming!

 

[Michael sprigg]

If I remember correctly, did you not say that you cut the wires to disable the TORS system.

As you have the removal kit, install it, then leak test.

No problems with the questions, keep them coming!

Yes thats correct blaaster but im just wondering if the TORS kicked in becuase it thought there was a air leak. Im just watching some videos to find out what i need to make a leakdown tester and i will install the removal kit this weekend. I will keep you up to date thanks

 

[Blaaster]

My bad, you meant before you cut the wires.

I do not believe the TORS will operate to control over revving caused by an air leak, but I could be wrong.

The TORS I believe was designed to cut spark in the case of a sticking or over applied throttle.

This is an area in which I know very little, and if am hoping that someone who is more conversant with the TORS system will chime in and prove me wrong.

Here we are I found something.

 

[tbrooks]

Make sure your tester itself doesn't leak when you build it. I'm not sure what affect spraying wd40 on a leaky running engine would have

 

[Blaaster]

WD 40 propellant I believe is flammable and would raise the idle speed if sprayed on a leaky gasket.

There is absolutely no way that I would even dream of letting that stuff see the inside of my engine.

The only things I use WD 40 for is as a penetrant, water displacement medium and to prop the garage door open with.

 

[Michael sprigg]

Just to keep you helpfull people up to date on tuesday i finally haad the spare time to go collect my quad from lockup and bring it home for a bit mess about. I drilled the carb and put new cable on and then just decided i will check the reeds before putting the carb back on and what i found was shocking. One whole petal was just floating around fully snapped off and could have easily moved around little bit more and went into chamber. Ordered a second hand unit as its quite hard to source parts for my blaster in the uk and end up getting a nasty import charge from usa. And bike runs mint goin out sunday and hope everything goes well thanks for the help

 

[Blaaster]

Please leak test it before you ride Sunday.