hi, guys, new here, been reading for a while, i guess it was time to sign up. my friend has a 05 blaster that he bought last summer. it has a pro circuit pipe and open airbox stock filter. it ran good for a while and then he fried the piston. i sent the cylinder to get ported to a very reputabale local porter. also got .25 overvore done at the same time and i know he shaved-worked the head some. also put some v-force 4 at the same time. when i went into the carb, it had a 260 main jet. now i added a shim under the needle, so thats like moving the clip half a postion. i put a 280 main jet in and its on the edge of beeing to ritch as it sputters a little at wot. i find it weird because from reading over here i should be at atleast 300-310 main jet with my mods. im almost at sea level too.? any ideas? it ran with a 260 stock motor, so by porting and the vforce i should have to go atleast 40 on the main jet no? also i saw on the microfiche theres supposed to be a washer underneath the main jet, does this washer usually like stay or stick on the carb when you change the jets? i didnt look for it as i didnt know, but it certainly didnt fall when i changed the jet. thanks alot for you input!
another jetting question
- Thread starter turbor
- Start date
i've never seen a 300+ listed for a pro circut pipe, which seems to like the leanest jetting of the pipes besides maybe the DG.
plug chop that 280, or even drop to a 270 and plug chop again, it's the only way to determine jetting for your exact mods, elevation, temps ect.
not some chinese arithmatic someone dreamed up.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
usually no jetting for reeds, possibly porting, they just move the fuel/air already available more effeciently.
plug chops again to confirm that
and yes, the brass washer must be under the main jet or it changes the jet level in the fuel.
it does usually stay stuck to the carb body, but has fallen out for some.
you'll see if it's there when you change mains
plug chop that 280, or even drop to a 270 and plug chop again, it's the only way to determine jetting for your exact mods, elevation, temps ect.
not some chinese arithmatic someone dreamed up.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
usually no jetting for reeds, possibly porting, they just move the fuel/air already available more effeciently.
plug chops again to confirm that
and yes, the brass washer must be under the main jet or it changes the jet level in the fuel.
it does usually stay stuck to the carb body, but has fallen out for some.
you'll see if it's there when you change mains
N
no i dont know, it melted the top exhaust side of the piston, cylinder was fine, and it was still running. Maybe a tad lean and maybe he was wot in 6th for too long haha
Properly jetted you can run it until tank is dry.
I have a dollar says you haven't leak tested and still have a leak.
I have a dollar says you haven't leak tested and still have a leak.
im not betting lool well the owner is far from a mechanic. he got the blaster from a guy that had not used it for a while, it would barely idle, he told me. when he got it what they did was remove the airbox lid as it was on and it ran fine. aibox lid on it would sputter, so he just ran it like that, no plug chops nothing lol. so i just assumed he was lean all along without knowing. maybe he was and maybe you guys are right about a possible air leak. i understand to check for air leak around carb, just spray brake cleaner with it running, but it there a fast way to check the cranck seals for a leak?
^^^ yep, you can build your own tester or buy one from member awk. If removing the lid helped the problem, than it sounds more like too much fuel. When you remove the lid it increased the air. That doesn't mean there isn't still a leak somewhere though. With that large of a jet there has to be
