didnt ride it at all this winter, went out to start it up, wont start. i put an oil injection block off kit on, tors removed and installed vito's carbon reeds at the end of last season. has new gas (premix 32:1), cleaned the carb, has spark, and compression is around 120psi after 8 kicks and holds steady. any suggestions? what might have i done wrong? reeds installed incorrectly? am i just a bumbling idiot. any help is super appreciated!
98 no start, seems like ive checked everything!
- Thread starter lobes
- Start date
did you pull the plug see how it looks. i pop a new plug in there see if that helps. if it don't start with the new plug pull the plug back out after kickin it over and see if its wet if its not then it maybe not getting gas.
both ign coil circuits are good, plug boot is good, has a brand new plug in it, plug isnt wet, and the gas feed line is clear, as well as i just cleaned out the carb. virtually everything wiring wise seems to have continuity, and where it should be. im just thrown off because the person i bought this from attempted a tors removal, and i attempted to do it correctly, as well as they removed the start switch. wiring harness is a mess and im trying to go through this jumble of crap. thanks for the ideas guys, keep them coming!
Well maybe if wiring harness is really screwed up you can find a used harness on ebay for not too much and help you save on problems down the line.
what yr is your blaster if its a 03+ maybe some thing with your tors is still wrong or maybe your parking brake.. your feed could be good to the carb but maybe your float is off and its not feeding your motor any fuel.. cause if its not starting after a bunch of kick that plug should be wet..
its a 98. as for the float, how can i fix that? im not very educated in the operation of a carb. i get the idea of how it works, but dont know how i could change/adjust the float etc.
i would take your carb off the blasty and pop the bowl off and clean it up good and make sure your float is free and moves up and down very easily.
yeah i didn't notice the plug isn't wet comment, here is "how to" Remove float bowl screws. Slide the lower movable leg so that both legs will rest on what would be called the gasket surface of the carb body. Tilt the carb so that the floats just flop over towards and into the carb bowl. Tilt just enough to touch and close the float the float valve, but don't compress the float valve spring when measuring.Test adjust the "L" horizontal arm in the usual 1mm increments and test fit the gauge to see what the float is set at now.should be 15mm and you measure 4mm less than that, you might be compressing the little float valve spring.If you are tuning, you'd usually use 1mm increments
alright, ive done what you suggested. i didnt have a feeler gauge here, but i found something that works, it looked as though it was right around 14/15mm. after disassembly and cleaning, and slight adjustment like you suggested, it seems to be getting fuel, but still no start. im thinking a new wiring harness is going to end up being the solution, but id really rather have little to no wiring harness. does anyone know what i can run for wires to eliminate virtually everything on this bike? i dont use lights, or an oil level switch because of my blockoff kit. what can i try?
just as another question, because im working on a theory right now, does anyone here have a dvom (volt meter) thats capable of reading resistance? if so, would you be willing to check your CDI unit and throw some readings my direction so i can compare them to mine? im looking specifically for the reading between the black ground wire, and white/red, and a reading between the black ground wire and black/red. thanks guys!
will it start with starting fluid ??? check ur flywheel key . if its broke it will throw the timing off and wont start . its a common problem .
Similar threads
