Recent content by yooper

By-passed the switch and it runs better...high idle though. Any way to lower the rpms without purchasing a new cable and cap?

Ok...I disconnected the TORS and jumps the terminals. Now it runs much better, but idles high. Is this a common problem once the disconnect is made?

I did some research on TORS...I will try bypassing the switch and see what happens...thanks.

Purchased new plug...what does TORS reference? IS this the electronic carburetor swith technology?

It's stock. I purchased from the original owner, who claims it has the factory tires. The engine has no evident of being removed or modified. There is evidence, stripped screw heads, that the previous owner did go into the carburator switch housing.

Yes, I have played with the air screw and it runs best at about 1-turn.

The adjustment screw for the carb switch is located on the top of the switch housing. On this machine, access to the adjustment screw is under the seat.

I have not owned a machine with this technology, so I'm in need of information. I have tried to make an adjustment to get it to idle and it's very sensitive. When tuning, I hit a point about 1 1/2-turns out, where the rpms climb very quickly and the engine begins to back fire. If turned back...

I'm beginning to think it maybe an ignition problem. After making a few adjustments, I got it to run better (still won't idle) but at higher rpms it's back firing. Any thoughts?

yes out 1 1/2 turns...seems to be running lean because once the choke is pushed in it dies. It also did dieseled on me once when I opened the throttle as I pushed in the choke. Pulled the spark plug and choke back out to kill the engine. Jet is stock as well as engine.

I just purchased this bike and got it running, but only idles on full-to-partial choke. I pulled the carb and cleaned the jets and speced the settings. Can the electronic idle be by-passed or removed? Before I start throwing parts at it, I'm curious if anyone has diagnosed this. Thanks!