LA. Sleeve & CT Racing recommended engine break-in

Awk08

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After seeing some "talk" around here that "heat cycling your new top end is not needed"
:eek::eek::eek:

I figured i'd Google the subject instead of believing what is common knowledge on here, my builder recommends, and has worked numerous times for thousands of us here and millions world-wide

Here's what LA. Sleeve, and CT Racing, both recommend for 2 stroke break-in, and YES, they both recommend "heat cycles" and re-torquing the head/base nuts afterwards.

LA. Sleeve Break-in Procedure:
(probably the world leader in engine sleeves ?)

http://www.lasleeve.com/downloads/2-stroke-break-in-procedures.pdf

CT Racing Break-in Procedure:

Cylinder Break In

Hope this helps clear up what some De-Da-Dee Gomer Pyle type, tells you down at your local mom & pop mechanic shop, that heat cycles are unnecessary
(could it be they need your business???)
 
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Someone said that heat cycles weren't needed? Lol, I wish them good luck with all their future "inevitable" motor rebuilds. :eek:
 
Someone said that heat cycles weren't needed? Lol, I wish them good luck with all their future "inevitable" motor rebuilds. :eek:

yep, i figured before it gets spread around, and some noob got catastrophic advice,
i'd nip it in the bud I:I
 
while i'm at it, i am going to call this out also,
this new "break-in secrets"
that promotes a hard, rip it, break-in that i see some mentioning here and there..........

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

this is complete bunk for our engines, i'm not sure about
your builder, but mine still uses the same grit stones to hone cylinders that he has for 35+ years

if anyone who believes in this dog do-doo, would have read it completely, they'd see he mentions.........

Qoute:

The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines. "




THIS DOES NOT EVEN REMOTELY APPLY TO THE WAY OUR ENGINES ARE HONED, NOR THE GRIT STONES USED TO DO THE CROSS HATCHING, AND HAS NO BUSINESS BEING APPLIED OR EVEN MENTIONED FOR OUR BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
 
although i strongly agree that the rings need to be seated properly to the cylinder... i feel imo a lot of peeps take it to the "next level" with break ins, no i didnt watch the videos or links you posted awkster but i hear about this "2 full tanks at half throttle" sh*t and its dumb. im sorry but my last jug on a fresh hone and brand new wiseco slug lasted over 2 years and still had great compression! started every time 1st or 2nd kick. everyone has their method but i do 2 legit heat cycles re torque and rip away brothers dont waste your riding time with your blaster sitting at idle next to a fan!

plug chop plug chop plug chop, get your jetting perfect and give it hell for 2 years plus on a very modded motor :)

my 2 cents btw great post awk and remember do not ever fire it up 1st time and rev it to the moon. not the proper way to seat the rings. ever in any motor
 
Read the article. It's all based on four strokes. I start new four stroke dirt bikes/quads and run them for 20 minutes at no less than 2000 RPM and nothing over 3000 RPM.This is for the new cams/ buckets to break in. Change the oil after that and check the valve clearance. Run a tank of gas at no more than 5000 RPM, change the oil, check the valve clearance and beat the living hell out of it. If you're stupid fast, I'll see you again in 60 hours. I love this job!!!!!!
 
/\ i'm assuming that is directed at the "break-in secrets" full throttle break-in methods